Pacific Northwest

The Ozette Triangle hike starts at the north end of Ozette Lake, running three miles on a redwood boardwalk through old growth forest to the coastline. When you arrive at the coast, you are faced with a foreboding ocean beach scene. Brown and black boulders are obscured by a heavy coating of kelp and a a vast variety of seaweed. You are forced to rock-hop down most of the beach trail because the piles of intersecting logs are nearly impossible to navigate. While rock hopping might sound easy, it isn't because they are covered by slimy and wet kelp.

Normally in such conditions we would set a leisurely pace and make our way down the trail, making sure not to twist an ankle or fall and damage photographic equipment. In this case, the ocean throws you for another loop. This hike needs to be completed while the tide is low. At two points you cross headlands that are under water at high tide. The Park Service folks we talked to repeatedly reinforced that we had to get through these spots before high tide at noon. For this reason, we were moving pretty quickly down the beach. We didn't know precisely when the tide would be high enough to obscure our path and the Park Service wouldn't provide that kind of detail. Our concern was entirely unfounded. Both headlands have very short overland routes that easily go around the tidal-zone. Furthermore, you would have to be a fool to accidentally get caught in the tidal zone at one of the headlands. The beach routes around the headlands just aren't that long.

This first panoramic image shows one of these headlands with the rocks covered in seaweed and kelp. Behind the foreground boulders there is a small opening in the rocks where you can sit and enjoy peaceful shelter from the ubiquitous sounds of ocean waves.

The day we chose to hike the Ozette Triangle was foggy and cool. When we first arrived at the coastline, it seemed foreboding. I think my impatience to get past the headlands contributed to my feeling of unease. After we finally past the last headland, I suddenly felt much more relaxed and indulged in many more photos. I even setup the tripod. The panoramic above is typical for this stretch of beach, if it can be called a beach. Tidal pools, boulders and mountains of seaweed and kelp dominated the horizontal landscape but was interrupted by these grand monuments—some undeniably phallic while others stood like miniature islands with their own grasslands, cliffs, and trees.

September 13, 2010: this entry was predated to the date of the hike.

View a map of our hike.

The best part of the Ozette Triangle hike is the coastline, except for the rest of the hike that is wooded. We set-out early on a foggy Monday morning to hike the 9.5 mile triangle loop. First you hike three miles on a meandering, gnarled, old, redwood boardwalk through the stunning old-growth forest among the primeval ferns—a temperate rainforest. When you arrive at the coastline, you rock hop your way down three more miles of ocean front trail. Finally, you return to your starting point on the third leg of the trail by again meandering through old growth forest on a redwood boardwalk, but this time the ferns are shoulder high.

The top image is a 180 degree panoramic comprised of two rows of eleven images. Of course, the boardwalk you see on the left and right edges of the image is actually straight, and because of the panoramic image projection, you get the false impression that the trail makes a sharp 'V'.

We were trying to move quickly during the first leg of the hike because of the necessity of timing the tides while hiking the coastline segment of the trail, , but when I arrived at this spot I couldn't take it any more. I had endured too much scenery without enough photography. I absolutely HAD to stop, erect my tripod and rapidly fire off a panoramic at f/11 and 1/4 second. This is a difficult shot to rush, but it came out just as I had hoped.

This second panoramic was taken several hours later on the return leg of the hike. I was amazed at the enormous ferns that were thriving just a hundred yards from the ocean. This image was shot handheld, and it is comprised of two rows of seven images shot at f/11. The bottom row was shot at 1/30 second and the top at 1/60 second. I found that a stop or two of exposure compensation between the dark bottom row and the bright upper row did a better job of minimizing the blown highlights from the very bright foggy highlights, particularly when I overlapped the rows.

By all means, hike the Ozette Triangle, and don't forget to enjoy the serenity of the old growth forest.

September 13, 2010: this entry was predated to the date of the hike.

View a map of our hike.

We recently spent a short vacation touring and hiking (mostly hiking) around Washington State. We spent four days based around Mt. Rainier and then another four days on the Olympic peninsula.

While we were at Rainier we decided to drive the two hours to see Mt. Saint Helens. We weren't really sure what to expect from the site of the 1980 volcanic explosion, but a desert landscape in the Pacific Northwest wasn't it. The trails are rocky with black volcanic ash and rocks littering the area. Thirty years after the eruption, dry, bone-white trees lay scattered, while wildflowers have sprung in their midst. This first picture shows the lava dome—like a royal throne— presiding over the vast open areas that were once deep forest. While the landscape is lush and beautiful, it's amazing how few trees are growing— thirty years later—in the blast zone.

The lake you see is Spirit Lake and even today floating logs from the eruption still cover 20% of the lake. These logs will eventually sink, rootball first, and become a petrified forest.

We hiked from the Johnston Ridge Observatory to Harry's Ridge, a nine-mile round trip. In the second panorama you can see Harry's Ridge climbing up on the right overlooking a meadow of purple Alpine Lupin

September 13, 2010: this entry was predated to the date of the hike.

View a map of our hike.

On our first full day at Mount Rainier, we hiked to the Eagle Peak Saddle.The trailhead is near the Nisqually River suspension bridge at the Longmire visitors center. Most of the Eagle Peak trail climbs switchbacks through stunning old growth forest, past beautiful Western Red Cedar and Western Hemlock. It's hard to hike this trail without getting a crick in your neck from constantly gawking up at the trees.

About three quarters of the way up the 2995' ascent you emerge from the trees and start winding back and forth up the dizzying switchbacks shown below.The view to the south faces Lookout Mountain in the distance. At the top of the trail, in the Eagle Peak Saddle, we ran into some National Park Service trail maintenance guys who were breaking for lunch. They were hoofing it up these trails with chainsaws, shovels, and rakes. I was happy to compliment them on the condition of the trail. The Eagle Peak Saddle trail was in beautiful condition. We never had to climb over any fallen trees or endure long muddy slogs. In some ways, the trail was easier than those in the mountains of the east, simply because they are in such great condition.

We spent most of our day hiking and making photographs of this spectacular area. the panoramic above was the crown jewel of the day—it is composed of 66 images and when printed…it's well…I'll just say that it prints really big.

September 25, 2010: this entry was predated to the date of the hike.

View a map of our hike.